2005 XC90 4.4 - Counter Balance Bearing Failure - Best Way to Remove Engine?

ltemup4650 · Jan 15, 2014

The sprocket didn't cut in badly at all on the timing cover or mating surface on the engine. Where it did cut in is not a sealing surface. It is hard to see, but the most functional damage done was to the timing chain guides. At a minimum they will need new plastic.

I just dropped the heads off at a machine shop. Each head had multiple bent valves. Can anyone recommend where I should buy new valves? Looking online at my normal parts places (www.rockauto.com and similar others) it appears this is a rare motor and I'll likely have to pay dealer prices for valves.

I'll post more pics once I get the heads back and repair the sprocket and counter balance shaft bearings.

12Ounce · Jan 16, 2014

I was hoping your chain stayed in place on the cam wheels. Too bad. But with that many miles on the engine, you want to do a complete overhaul anyway. Re-ring. Re-seal, etc.

Most shops that I have dealt with have their own source of valves, seats, and seals ... If you have problems finding parts, contact Dover (Atlanta office) and see if they can help. Send me a message if there is a problem.

How did the shaft bearing/journals fare?

pengc99 · Jan 16, 2014

I'm actually extremely interested in this - can you post more pictures of the process of removing the engine and what you had to disconnect? I come from the world of Subarus where it takes 3 hours to pull and engine and minimal grunt work.

I'm considering pulling the engine on my V8 sometime this year to reseal the entire engine, change the balance shaft bearing, and get it ready for another 100k miles. I will eventually do it, but more documentation would help me greatly.

Warpedcow · Jan 17, 2014

pengc99 said:
I'm considering pulling the engine on my V8 sometime this year to reseal the entire engine, change the balance shaft bearing, and get it ready for another 100k miles. I will eventually do it, but more documentation would help me greatly.

Is your 06 V8 one of the early ones still prone to failure? Most 06's aren't...

pengc99 · Jan 17, 2014

Warpedcow said:
Is your 06 V8 one of the early ones still prone to failure? Most 06's aren't...

It's not.

ltemup4650 · Jan 17, 2014

pengc99, I don't have many more useful pics on the removal. It is extremely difficult to remove the V8 out the top...it fought me the whole way. When it is back in and running, I might list from memory what I did to remove it.

12ounce, I'll be removing the counter balance shaft today or Sunday. I'll post pictures of the shaft, bearings, journal, etc.

ltemup4650 · Jan 17, 2014

I still need a picture of where to drill the hole to modify my block to weap any water collected. If anyone can post the TSB or point me where to drill I would appreciate it.

12Ounce · Jan 17, 2014

I've got a 13 page print out that my cylinder head service shop produced for me on the subject. Its from ALLDATA "2005 Volvo XC90 AWD V8-4.4L VIN 85 B8444S - Service and Repair ...." , unfortunately the address printed is incomplete/abbreviated. But its probably easy to find once one is on the on-line service. Only about one page is dedicated to the actual drilling procedure. It shows a vertical 8mm hole being drilled downward just outside the rear bearing journal. Approximately 3mm of metal is drilled through to connect to a "drainage duct" that is already in place. I expect this will make sense to you when everything is disassembled.

Warpedcow · Jan 20, 2014

pengc99 said:
It's not.

So why do anything? These are not motors that need a rebuild every 100k miles to stay healthy...

ltemup4650 · Jan 20, 2014

pengc99 - I agree with Warpedcow. If it isn't broke, don't fix it.

12Ounce · Jan 20, 2014

I think we all agree that airplane, or elevator, or cruise ship, or nuclear power plant, etc. .... mechanics should take a different approach ... in these cases, waiting 'til it's broke will get you talked about in a very ugly way.

raymansean · Jan 21, 2014

12Ounce said:
I think we all agree that airplane, or elevator, or cruise ship, or nuclear power plant, etc. .... mechanics should take a different approach ... in these cases, waiting 'til it's broke will get you talked about in a very ugly way.

No the way mechanics take it in those fields is by the book. Who decides the service intervals are those with PE appended to their name. The way the PE decides the service interval is based on some safety factor (a number between 0 and 1 that he decides based on how likely such a failure will cost him his career) multiplied by the time to reach some acceptable* likelihood of failure. As a driver of a post 7k serial number v8 with less than 100k on the odometer I am not ordering new bearings anytime soon. I will probably re-evaulate at 150k or when some small percentage are reported to have fail and my mileage approaches those.

* usually determined by the bean counters who estimate the cost of failure multiplied by probability of failure v cost of maintenance.

ltemup4650 · Jan 21, 2014

12ounce - funny you mentioned nuclear power. I work in the nuclear power business and you're right, we have set maintenance schedules. In the case of vehicles however, there really aren't public safety concerns with engine maintenance.

12Ounce · Jan 21, 2014

ltemup4650 said:
12ounce - funny you mentioned nuclear power. I work in the nuclear power business and you're right, we have set maintenance schedules. In the case of vehicles however, there really aren't public safety concerns with engine maintenance.

.
Hmnnn ... well, maybe. You remind me of a time I was summer travelling full expressway speed, van loaded with family and luggage, "walls" on both sides of the road ... no exit ramps ... followed closely (and tailgated) by heavy traffic on all sides. It was just then that one of those heater hose quick connects decided to let-go off my engine. I had known it was suspect ... and I should have already replaced it.

But, instead, I was able to watch through the mirror as slimy, hot coolant suddenly covered some windshields behind me. Luckily, there were no accidents ... but there was a bit of unsteady steering and starting up the wipers. So ... you just never know what might be important.

ltemup4650 · Jan 30, 2014

12ounce - thank you so much for the drilling procedure, but I've decided to buy a replacement engine. I found one for $1600.

I decided to buy the replacement because the cost to repair the heads was even more than a replacement engine. The cost for fixing heads is so high because the valves have to sourced from a Volvo dealer / OEM parts website (i.e. there is no aftermarket available).

I'll post pictures of the new engine installation as I remember to take them. For now, here are a couple:

ltemup4650 · Feb 5, 2014

There was a delay installing the engine. The trans coupler (sleeve) for the AWD was stripped out. I put a new one in, mounted the rear angle gear and set it in the vehicle. I will have a good short block (crank, pistons, block) for sale if anyone knows anyone in need of one.

pengc99 · Feb 5, 2014

How is the metal plate that goes between the headlights and covers the top of the radiator/condenser removed?

ltemup4650 · Feb 7, 2014

pengc99,

Remove the front bumper: (

)

Then there are several (8 I think) 8mm bolts holding the upper radiator support (the black metal plate you are talking about) to the fender and front frame section. You will also need to unbolt the hood latches. I unbolted them, removed them from the upper radiator support and let them just sit in the engine bay.

2005 XC90 4.4 - Counter Balance Bearing Failure - Best Way to Remove Engine?

ltemup4650

12Ounce

pengc99

Warpedcow

pengc99

ltemup4650

ltemup4650

12Ounce

Warpedcow

ltemup4650

12Ounce

raymansean

ltemup4650

12Ounce

ltemup4650

ltemup4650

pengc99

ltemup4650

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