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squeaksvolvo

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I got a simoto oil catch kit. I've never taken the intake off. Could someone describe the install process? Will I take anything off that requires new gaskets. Also, do I take from before crankcase air goes into pcv box or after for the catch input?

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My impression was that you have to install it into the line that goes into the intake to the heater element thing. Lol all I got for ya sorry.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
The heater element thingy is probably an air flow meter of some sort.

The oil catch is installed in series with your PCV box. One of my questions is should it be before the box or after. But that's not really important until I get parts removed to where I have access. My guess is removing the intake manifold may be necessary.

I should give Connor a ring :D
 
The heater element thingy is probably an air flow meter of some sort.

The oil catch is installed in series with your PCV box. One of my questions is should it be before the box or after. But that's not really important until I get parts removed to where I have access. My guess is removing the intake manifold may be necessary.

I should give Connor a ring :D
My snabb pipe on the inside where the heater thing going into it. Leaves oil so I think the catch can would work there as well. I saw Connors had a ton of oil gunk there to before his catch can install.
 
From what I understand, the catch can is just a can that has an in and out tube that allows the oily air to scrub off the excess oil in the can before exiting through the out tube. This makes less mess inside the turbo intake tube. It is only needed because the factory catch tank is proving to be insufficient. So, your catch can will connect to the output of the factory can, then the output will connect to the turbo intake tube. Now they work in*conjuction- together.

The heater element within the intake tube calculates air density by being cooled by the ambiant air temps. So being covered in oil can reduce performance. Hence, needing the catch can. That's my 2 cents....
 
My snabb pipe on the inside where the heater thing going into it. Leaves oil so I think the catch can would work there as well. I saw Connors had a ton of oil gunk there to before his catch can install.
Connor installed a dope ass catch can and is REALLLY really happy with the results
 
Connor installed a dope ass catch can and is REALLLY really happy with the results
He did do you happen to know the guy? He said he was going to come do one on my car to.
 
Discussion starter · #12 · (Edited)
Completed catch can install and the 4 driveline fluid replacements this weekend.

After a bit of engine bay dickering... I installed the catch can right at the PTC connection at the intake air pipe. If you follow the outlet of the stock catch can around to the intake pipe, it is a metal pipe that goes around the engine then connects with a rubber hose a few inches long to the PTC/intake air pipe. This hose Y's with one hose going behind the engine somewhere and the other hose to the PTC/intake air pipe. I disconnected this hose at the PTC/intake air pipe, put in a 90 degree adapter, connected a 0.5" heater hose that runs to the catch can inlet. Then I ran another length of 0.5" hose to the PTC nipple. I mounted the catch can on the fuse box bolt in the empty space on the driver's side of the engine. I secured the heater hose runs by the brake lines with zip ties. I tried to minimize the bending of the hose. I chose to run the catch can outlet hose behind the engine, behind the diverter valve connection on IPD's intake pipe and loop down to the PTC.

I inspected through the viewing window on the catch can after a 600 mile highway drive. Condensation made visibility difficult, but no or little oil was discernible in the catch can. I only hit high boost levels to pass a couple left-lane knuckleheads who decided they would rather drive slower in the left lane than keep right, and then try to speed up to prevent me from just getting home.

I may have noticed a 1" change in vacuum at shut throttle, where I had been at about 24" per the vacuum gauge, I see like 22-23. This may be coincidental. I am slightly concerned about the 90 degree bend and extra length of hose, and the catch can restricting the flow, but I suspect I'll be rewarded with a slightly cleaner intake in the future.

Car has 60k miles now.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
The simoto kit came with a short hose with a smaller diameter than the 0.5" id hose that fits our stock connections, but fittings for the can that screw on were included for 0.5" id hose. I estimate I used 5' of heater hose.

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Guys , I received my oil catch tank and I'm going to install it by the end of the week.
I just want to be sure that I'm going to do in the right place: as I understand I need to install it breather hose pipe, like I sign in the photo below. Am I correct ?

Image
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
That pipe goes into the input to stock breather box. I'd consider connecting to the output of the box.
 
Guys , I received my oil catch tank and I'm going to install it by the end of the week.
I just want to be sure that I'm going to do in the right place: as I understand I need to install it breather hose pipe, like I sign in the photo below. Am I correct ?

Image
You want to connect inline to the hose that is connecting to the intake pipe
 
You want to connect inline to the hose that is connecting to the intake pipe
and what I'm thinking wrong way ? this pipe comes in intake of manufacture catch tank
 
The line going into the intake is a combination of block and head lines. if you use that top head line youll be catching oil from only 1 place vs 2
 
The line going into the intake is a combination of block and head lines. if you use that top head line youll be catching oil from only 1 place vs 2
Ok, thanks for explanation , now I got it.

How extly looks the place of the line into the intake ?!
 
Somebody ...hellooooo :))))
 
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