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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Not a chance. It is 100% in the front passenger side. Not to mention I have an auto..
 
check your side motor mount(on pass side). You'll notice vibration will het worse as you turn the wheel from side to side in a parked position. Also, check that your brake pads aren't sticking and that you don't have a loose caliper bolt.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
When I slow way down it only makes the noise once in a full wheel revolution so it couldn't be the pads themselves. Would more likely be a rotor issue but they are fine. I have a feeling it would be more likely that it is an axle issue or engine mount but the lower mount looks ok and axle looks and feels fine.

I haven't touched the car in a few weeks. I wish I could just drive it off a cliff. I will never own another Volvo as long as I live. Have had 20 cars since I got my license and the 2 Volvo's I have owned have been the most problematic of all. Far more than the 2 BMW's I have owned. I prefer to work on my own car but am forced to take this one to the Volvo dealer and so far they don't seem like they have a clue what they are doing either. They told me my ABS issue was the front ABS sensor last time. I replaced it and it didn't change. Then they told me it was the ABS computer. I told them well last time they said it was the sensor so what happens if I pay them $1600 to fix the computer and the problem persists to which they replied, we cannot gaurantee it will fix it nor would we be responsible for the costs if it doesn't. Sounds promising.

What kind of idiot designed a system that puts the car into limp mode when the ABS system doesn't work? It's not like anyone "needs" ABS to drive to work.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Took the car to the dealer and had a wonderful experience!!!

I knew I needed a new ABS computer so they did that but when they test drove it, they said it needed an axle and possibly would need a bearing as well. But they wouldn't know until they got the axle out. I also told them to do an inspection and oil change since I am now living in an apartment until my new house is done.

I expected a $2500+ bill. When I arrived to get it, the bill was $1800. They found some crazy ring that was in the axle assembly that shouldn't be there so all they had to do was remove the axle, remove the odd ring and then replace. I didn't need a new axle or bearing!! Not only that, they balanced my wheels/tires for me!! I was amazed that they didn't screw me. I am so pleased that I am writing them a nice letter.
 
Discussion starter · #28 · (Edited)
They could have easily gotten another $500-700 and I would have never noticed.

The ABS computer is $1250 +$300> for labor and then the software. I also had an inspection and oil change since I am temporarily living in an apartment.
 
I apologize for bringing up this old thread. I had a similar issue with my car; it turns out that I had a bad front differential bushing that causes a clunking noise when I let off the gas pedal, so I verified it by jacking up the car and grabbing the front end of the differential and checking for free play. I did a lot of searches on this issue and came across an in-depth article that may be worth reading. Search for "causes a thud noise when taking foot off the gas pedal on YOUCANIC" and you will see an article that goes over common causes and possible fixes. You can read about it yourself. I hope this information can assist someone else with a similar issue.
 
Check the boot on the lower control arm ball joints. Check 360 degrees with a bright torch. I had this irritating clunk and I had a small tear in the boot where it’s closest to the brake disc dust shield. All the grease had escaped and it was causing a clunk as it had worn out. Or get someone to push down on the front wing whilst you have your forefinger on the 18mm ball joint nut. You can feel vibrations in this when it’s bad using this technique. I spend months chasing this. Check both as if it sounds like it’s coming from the right one it’s often the left!
 
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