Ok, one more 0w 30 thread

hamburgerpimp · Jun 12, 2013

So after being in Lake Tahoe last winter and having to add my usual 1 qt every 3000k miles while there in 28f temperature , I was shocked the the oil ( 10 30 castrol edge ) would not even pour through the baffle in valve cover and spilled everywhere. I was shocked how thick oil was at that temp and figured id start running 0w 30 in winter . Then I came across this Volvo oil chart that says either 0w 30 or 5w 30 for R motors . No mention of the 10w 30 the manual states at all. So is 0w 30 good for year round? I live in sunny california , but in winter car spends lot of time in Tahoe and all the way up to Canada where its plenty cold.

Thoughts??? and no pics of beating a dead horse please , lol
:beer:

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/pdf/VolvoOilChart2007UKv5.pdf

JoJoDaClown · Jun 13, 2013

I run 0W30 year round, but it's also common to run 0w30 in cold climate, then to 5w30 in warm climate.

fallenfenix87 · Jun 13, 2013

I run 5w30 year round, but I let the car warm up more during the winter. Never had any problems...knock on wood!

reward2 · Jun 13, 2013

0w30 in mine and 5w30 in wife's S80. Next oil change I'm going to 5w30 in mine too. Does that make sense or is either ok?

Zeljko_M · Jun 13, 2013

I have abandoned 0w30. Last I was using was 10w60 and I loved it. Much smoother engine performance during hot summer days!
Every morning I'd leave the caR to run for half a minute before driving it with RPM not higher than 2500, till it heated up a little.

No problems at all, and I used to see temperatures of -10 centigrade.

soupandspoons · Jun 13, 2013

Zeljko_M said:
I have abandoned 0w30. Last I was using was 10w60 and I loved it. Much smoother engine performance during hot summer days!
Every morning I'd leave the caR to run for half a minute before driving it with RPM not higher than 2500, till it heated up a little.

No problems at all, and I used to see temperatures of -10 centigrade.

Did you install an oil pressure gauge to monitor oil pressure? I'm guessing that the ultra-thick 10w60 may cause the oil pressure to be higher, thereby causing the bypass valve for the oil filter to be open more often.

cleanerPA · Jun 13, 2013

I've used German Castrol 0W30 in the R as well as some other cars, with no issues at all. The R doesn't seem to care too much, but I think high viscosity oil is not the best thing- when I ran some Mobil 1 5W40 turbodiesel truck oil, it consumed more oil than usual- I usually use a quart in about 3000-3500 miles. This Mobil used a quart in about 1500 miles, so I never used it again.

I would not use 10W60 only because it's too thick IMO and definitely too expensive! The Castrol TMS stuff is $14/quart.

RobertoT5 · Jun 13, 2013

T501 · Jun 14, 2013

I would also think 10w-60 will raise pressure as well as potentially clog PCV sooner. In sunny South Florida I like 10W-30 Summer or 5W30 The other not as summer-y season we have. If I lived way up North I would go for 5w-30 or maybe 0w-30. Always Mobil 1 for me.

maronha · Jun 14, 2013

AMSOIL 0W30 here.

KCCM · Jun 14, 2013

Use 5W-30 Castrol year-round in Toronto (-20C –> +35C range in operating temperature.) From the dipstick, it looks like the dealer overfills a little (half a litre?) and that is down to the top of the hash marks by the next change at 12,000 km.

Paisley Pirate · Jun 14, 2013

Always remember, the first number is the cold flow rate (W = Winter) and the second is the flow rate at temperature (compared to a single "weight" standard) All of it has to do with flow rate out of a viscosity cup or some other measure.

So... from other threads, I've read that the 0W30 Castrol is actually a bit thicker (less viscosity) at operating temperature than 5w30 is... so should be no problem to run it year round.

I run 5w30 because it's handy (I can get it just about everywhere, if I sprang a leak) and my R tells me to change by dropping that first quart (it stays up and then nearly suddenly, the first quart goes away... kind of like a couple of old Mopars I used to own!)

Honestly, Zeljko_M, I think you are leaving some horsepower in the crankcase by running that heavy an oil. The parasitic drag off of it compared with the tolerances that the engine is made for, would make me think the gearbox oil you are using is a bit much. I could well be wrong on it (and ran 20w50 in my 240s with B21FT and B23FT engines for years) but I know that my pressures never get weird with the thin oil in the newer motor.

reward2 · Jun 14, 2013

Paisley Pirate said:
Always remember, the first number is the cold flow rate (W = Winter) and the second is the flow rate at temperature (compared to a single "weight" standard) All of it has to do with flow rate out of a viscosity cup or some other measure.

So... from other threads, I've read that the 0W30 Castrol is actually a bit thicker (less viscosity) at operating temperature than 5w30 is... so should be no problem to run it year round.

I run 5w30 because it's handy (I can get it just about everywhere, if I sprang a leak) and my R tells me to change by dropping that first quart (it stays up and then nearly suddenly, the first quart goes away... kind of like a couple of old Mopars I used to own!)

Honestly, Zeljko_M, I think you are leaving some horsepower in the crankcase by running that heavy an oil. The parasitic drag off of it compared with the tolerances that the engine is made for, would make me think the gearbox oil you are using is a bit much. I could well be wrong on it (and ran 20w50 in my 240s with B21FT and B23FT engines for years) but I know that my pressures never get weird with the thin oil in the newer motor.

Thanks for the information

n23 · Jun 14, 2013

So, living in FL and spending 2/3ds of the year in warm to hot weather, 5w30 full-syn is fine?

Ok, one more 0w 30 thread

hamburgerpimp

JoJoDaClown

fallenfenix87

reward2

Zeljko_M

soupandspoons

cleanerPA

RobertoT5

T501

maronha

KCCM

Paisley Pirate

reward2

n23

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