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Depends on what you want to do with the car? Good upgrade for a daily driver would be a 16 or 18T. You need a really good tune with the 18T with the 16t you could get by with the stock ecu. Before I upgraded the turbo I would do a catback downpipe and drop in a 628 ecu to spice things up.
Do a solid stage 0 tune up along with trans flush before any serious upgrades are done. Do the timing belt and flametrap if they havent been done.
 
its important to know the health of your engine before doing anything.
zero tune is essential before attempting anything.
auto trans is the weakest link, consider a manual swap, ive done it myself.
a 16t should be fine with a light tune.
i would only push to a 18t when considering 270-350hp. but be ready to invest in supporting hardware.
 
I am very happy with my 16T build on my wagon. I have everything the 18T guys have but on my 16T. I ,as well as others with the 18T, find my car to be a little more punchy down low. (example Robt5 has my exact same set up but on an 18T with the correct tune... he gets ZERO wheel spin off the line, I on the other hand have the 16T with Tune, and get plenty of wheel spin.) Now on the flip side, once his 18T is going he blows by me. so its kinda up to your driving style... are you more of a highway at 100mph person or more of a city jumping in front of other drivers type person. My car for daily city driving is a blast.
 
All HPT 850's received TD04HL-15G turbos, with stock boost for turbo and T5 models set at 9.6 psi, and T5-R and R models at 10.5 psi (stock hp are 222 and 240, respectively). (The European 850R received a 16T turbo)

All HPT 70-series cars received 16T turbos (with the exception of the V70R's, which received 18T's in 98 and 99, and 19T's in 2000). Not sure on stock boost setting, I'd assume it's around 10 for the T5's and probably 12.5 or so for the R's.
 
RSPi you have the early conical 15G(restrictive exhaust side), i'm assuming your car is bone stock so you're producing 11lbs.

A 16T will bolt right up, I do have a good one sitting in my home as display. It is the sought after angled flange(better flow) and I also have a Japanifold(better flowing exhaust manifold over the 850 turbo manifold) sitting.

Since you are asking about bigger turboes what I suggest is you first get an ARD Green Remap, your car will feel like a rocket!
0-60: 6.2
1/4mile: 14.7

Completely safe and your MPGs will go up when cruising! AND you will be as quick as a stock manual T5, maybe quicker on the highway...

Click below:
http://www.snabb.us/Snabb-Ard-Green-Tune-_p_110.html

Later down the line you can throw on a cat-back exhaust(DEFINITELY before you enter into a cross country race that requires speeds of over 140mph+ in some sections) b/c sustained peak boost pressures will crack the turbine housing on your 15G due to restricted flow.

I had a cracked housing(hotside) for over a year before I found the 16T i'm running now.

Later on, you can toss on a 16T and a Japanifold. By this time you may be around the limits of the stock autobox but it will hold just fine.

Any more questions just ask.
 
There is another guy that has an 18T on the autobox that is holding up just fine but from what i've been reading and my experience the smaller turboes produce more torque down low.

I think peak power for the autobox is about 340hp(300whp). With my setup my car feels like a 290hp/280-290tq car based on the races i've had and the cars i've beat up on.
 
All HPT 850's received TD04HL-15G turbos, with stock boost for turbo and T5 models set at 9.6 psi, and T5-R and R models at 10.5 psi (stock hp are 222 and 240, respectively). (The European 850R received a 16T turbo)

All HPT 70-series cars received 16T turbos (with the exception of the V70R's, which received 18T's in 98 and 99, and 19T's in 2000). Not sure on stock boost setting, I'd assume it's around 10 for the T5's and probably 12.5 or so for the R's.
The 98 v70r comes with a 16t stock just FYI. The 16t Definetly spools faster but my feeling is the 16t with a tune performs stronger on the highway. This is my personal experience so I prefer the 18t in our big Utah highway mountain passes where it's helpful/needed.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk, hence the typos...
 
Unless you can get it dirt cheap or already have one, going up to a 16t from a 15g is a waste of time and money. You'll barely notice anything. 18/19t, ard blue tune, 3 inch dp. Auto will be fine as long as you keep healthy fluid and don't beat it like a dog. Might also be a good idea to invest in an external trans cooler although I don't have one and have had zero issues. You'll be noticeably faster than any 15g/16t car. The tiny loss in low end torque really isn't even enough to be mentioned. Your car will pull much harder from 25 and up. Wheel spin isn't a good thing anyway.

Although not a direct bolt on, the k24 is becoming a more common upgrade. But even with an external cooler you're probably really reaching the trannys limits. Might be a bad idea unless you're planning on doing a manual swap in the near future.
 
Unless you can get it dirt cheap or already have one, going up to a 16t from a 15g is a waste of time and money. You'll barely notice anything. 18/19t, ard blue tune, 3 inch dp. Auto will be fine as long as you keep healthy fluid and don't beat it like a dog. Might also be a good idea to invest in an external trans cooler although I don't have one and have had zero issues. You'll be noticeably faster than any 15g/16t car. The tiny loss in low end torque really isn't even enough to be mentioned. Your car will pull much harder from 25 and up. Wheel spin isn't a good thing anyway.

Although not a direct bolt on, the k24 is becoming a more common upgrade. But even with an external cooler you're probably really reaching the trannys limits. Might be a bad idea unless you're planning on doing a manual swap in the near future.
see I beg to differ. #1 16T is dirt cheap anyways, $100 for a decent turbo and you rebuild it yourself for another $50. #2 with going to the 16T you don't have to "baby" the car. like you do with an 18T or bigger turbo. Hell you don't even have to get a Tune for it unless your going to up the PSI. #3 for CITY driving 0-25 mph is a big deal. If I can't pull out into traffic because I'm waiting for 25mph for the turbo to spool im gonna be screwed.

I think it all depends on what the driver is looking for. if you want a smooth top end runner... got 18T, if you want a Punchy low end kick... 16T.
 
I just don't want the OP to think an 18/19t is a laggy turbo because honestly it's still a tiny td04 which spools almost instantly. Doesn't fall on its face after 4500 either. And trust me I don't have to baby my car.

My point is if he already likes the way the 15g is, no sense in stepping up to a 16t because the difference is next to nothing. I wouldn't even call it upgrading... 7 cfm I believe. It may pull a TINY bit more in high rpms. The boost onset of a bigger turbo such as an 18t is actually safer for your car providing you have a strong tune and you keep up with stage 0.
 
I ran a 15.1 with a 15G stock. Threw an 18T, angled housing w/downpipe and IPD stage 1 on a mbc and did this. Automagic.

 
well I think it also depends on which 15G they have. My 95 was a conical flange, and as soon as I went to the 16T I noticed a BIG difference. I could have gone with a 15G and just changed the Flange and your statement would probably be true... not much of a difference.
I'm sure it did feel faster. I've never driven a car with a 16t so you shouldn't even listen to me :)

And john nice video. When you had the auto what rpm did you normally brake-torque at?
 
My 16T comes on at 3600rpm, from a standstill to 30mph there's lag. I'd like to know how you have gotten yours to feel peppy below 30mph Jaime.

I've tweaked the wastegate for almost two weeks to get it to come on as low as possible, the best and lowest is 3600rpm for me.

Also, in my car at least, brake torquing at any rpm tends to make me slower than a regular launch no thanks to my michelin pilots..
 
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