SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 20 of 33 Posts

Mitkyl

· Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Long time reader, first time poster. I’ve done a little searching and reading on the site, but hadn’t seen anything yet that addresses some questions I have. I have a 2004 R with MT and 103K mi on the clock. I blew a head gasket due to a “misfire in cylinder #2” per the code readout. Upon taking it to the dealer where the all the past services had been performed, a new head gasket and coil packs/spark plugs were replaced. Needless to say, several dollars were spent. Within 2 days of picking up the car, the low coolant light came on and I brought back to the shop. I was informed that the cylinder #2 had a crack in it and the motor and/or block would need to be replaced.

I found this hard to swallow that I just spent a few thousand dollars repairing a “bad” motor. The dealership’s position is that the block was “weakened” from the misfire (predetonation I assume) but not “detectable”. Once the new head gasket was installed and under pressure, this caused the block to crack – not that it was an existing condition when I brought it in originally. Since there is no way of knowing now if the crack was or was not there originally, it’s my word against theirs.

My ACTUAL question is whether or not there is a step or diagnostic that should have been performed, that perhaps wasn’t, that would have perhaps eluded to the cracked block? I figure it's either incredibly bad luck or I'm getting the run around.

Sadly, my mechanical knowledge of cars is not at the same level as my passion for them. Some info that may or may not provide further light:
1. Only mods are an IPD CAI and grille. Oh, and an ipod adapter.
2. Car was meticulously maintained by myself and the previous owner (all records, etc)
3. At no time did the car overheat. It only went over half-way on the temp gauge for several minutes while at a red light.
4. The car did not have a 100K mi extended warranty.
5. When coolant filled, it would take approximately 1.5 days for the low light to appear (roughly the same duration after I picked it up from replacing the head gasket).

I will continue searching the forums, but any insight or pointing me in the right direction will be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
 
Yikes...sounds like they f*cked it up if I'm reading that correctly. Cracking on a stock tune has happened before, though very rare. Best to find a used engine, or do a complete engine build. See if you can talk Mr.Unnassailable or whatever into selling his block.
 
Long time reader, first time poster. I've done a little searching and reading on the site, but hadn't seen anything yet that addresses some questions I have. I have a 2004 R with MT and 103K mi on the clock. I blew a head gasket due to a "misfire in cylinder #2" per the code readout. Upon taking it to the dealer where the all the past services had been performed, a new head gasket and coil packs/spark plugs were replaced. Needless to say, several dollars were spent. Within 2 days of picking up the car, the low coolant light came on and I brought back to the shop. I was informed that the cylinder #2 had a crack in it and the motor and/or block would need to be replaced.

I found this hard to swallow that I just spent a few thousand dollars repairing a "bad" motor. The dealership's position is that the block was "weakened" from the misfire (predetonation I assume) but not "detectable". Once the new head gasket was installed and under pressure, this caused the block to crack - not that it was an existing condition when I brought it in originally. Since there is no way of knowing now if the crack was or was not there originally, it's my word against theirs.

My ACTUAL question is whether or not there is a step or diagnostic that should have been performed, that perhaps wasn't, that would have perhaps eluded to the cracked block? I figure it's either incredibly bad luck or I'm getting the run around.

Sadly, my mechanical knowledge of cars is not at the same level as my passion for them. Some info that may or may not provide further light:
1. Only mods are an IPD CAI and grille. Oh, and an ipod adapter.
2. Car was meticulously maintained by myself and the previous owner (all records, etc)
3. At no time did the car overheat. It only went over half-way on the temp gauge for several minutes while at a red light.
4. The car did not have a 100K mi extended warranty.
5. When coolant filled, it would take approximately 1.5 days for the low light to appear (roughly the same duration after I picked it up from replacing the head gasket).

I will continue searching the forums, but any insight or pointing me in the right direction will be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
it was there, originally the crack in the cylinder wall that is...the mechanic was not experienced to see it...seen in first hand...if you would have the old head gasket you would see there was nothing wrong with it and that would prove the problem was cracked cylinder wall to start out with...;)
 
That sucks. I agree with dougy. There was prolly nothing wrong with the head gasket. I'm guessing you didnt have it replaced at a Volvo shop. They should def do something for you at least split cost of new block.
 
I'm with Dougy as well. The crack was probably always the problem and replacing the head gasket and what not was a wasted cost. Though how you plan on proving that could be tough.
 
I do not buy the notion that the block was weakened from the misfire. At worst you might see some cylinder wall scoring as a result of unburned fuel washing down the wall lubrication. Preignition or detonation would be least likely in a low compression cylinder and would be seen in other cylinders.

In terms of what before and after tests, it would be nice to have before and after compression or leak down numbers. When they pulled the head they should have looked closely at the head and block for the traces left by the blown gasket if that were the case.

Ther is little doubt that they just missed the real cause and are now playing cya.

A call to vcna is in order to share some repair costs.
 
Yeah a call to VCNA may be in order. They just called to inform me they sheared the bolts when removing the turbo and I'll have to by a new (or used) turbo to go with the new motor . ..
LOL wut ?

I would be calling VCNA since testing the block and figuring out the exact cause of the leak should of been done.
To me and the rest here I agree the block was cracked before the gasket was changed
 
Anyone think the crack could of been by a IPD HD TCV that caused a spike in boost that the engine didn't like? I know the main issue used to be under-boost in cold temps...but
I don't want to throw anyone under the bus but it seemed to be his only mod...
 
Yeah a call to VCNA may be in order. They just called to inform me they sheared the bolts when removing the turbo and I'll have to by a new (or used) turbo to go with the new motor . ..
Maybe someone can help me out here but how would shearing the turbo bolts cause you to need a new turbo. And since they sheared the bolts while working on it wouldn't they be responsible for the replacement if it needs to be replaced since they broke it? Something doesn't sound right here sounds like they have a bunch of monkeys with wrenches working on your car and don't feel liable for their mistakes. I work in the service business and I know if I break something while fixing something else it's not the customers responsibility to pay for what I broke.
 
Anyone think the crack could of been by a IPD HD TCV that caused a spike in boost that the engine didn't like? I know the main issue used to be under-boost in cold temps...but
I don't want to throw anyone under the bus but it seemed to be his only mod...
Yes, certainly a possibility. There have been many reports of people having 25+ psi boost spikes after installing the IPD TCV.
 
Maybe someone can help me out here but how would shearing the turbo bolts cause you to need a new turbo. And since they sheared the bolts while working on it wouldn't they be responsible for the replacement if it needs to be replaced since they broke it? Something doesn't sound right here sounds like they have a bunch of monkeys with wrenches working on your car and don't feel liable for their mistakes. I work in the service business and I know if I break something while fixing something else it's not the customers responsibility to pay for what I broke.
You just need to drill out the turbo studs and put new ones in, it happened to me. LOL at replacing a turbo because of sheared studs.
 
You just need to drill out the turbo studs and put new ones in, it happened to me. LOL at replacing a turbo because of sheared studs.
That's exactly what I'm saying a new turbo isn't going to get the broken off studs or bolts out of the manifold. Replace the turbo that's craziness.
 
Anyone think the crack could of been by a IPD HD TCV that caused a spike in boost that the engine didn't like? I know the main issue used to be under-boost in cold temps...but
I don't want to throw anyone under the bus but it seemed to be his only mod...
Yes, certainly a possibility. There have been many reports of people having 25+ psi boost spikes after installing the IPD TCV.
Except OP does not have that mod... OP has IPD CAI not HD TCV. :rolleyes:
 
To me and the rest here I agree the block was cracked before the gasket was changed
I agree that crack was there before gasket change. You brought the car in to fix the coolant leak, few grand later it's still leaking. I'd insist on the money spent to be credited to you toward an engine replacement, they didn't fix your issue, they should eat this bill for misdiagnosing and performing unnecessary work. Insist on 100% reimbursement, not 50/50.

Oh, and the turbo fuk up is on them too.
 
Ya, if they broke the studs and require you to replace the turbo....they are effin nuts! Don't put up with that bs
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts