Crappy wheel bolt and thread... dam it Volvo!

TG · Apr 16, 2011

I'm really upset!

I going to the dealer tomorrow and I wanted to check on my brake pad so I remove the two left wheels and I can tell bolts are squeaking like mad. I’m trying to put the front wheel back on and the last bolt doesn't thread correctly so I remove it to find out that the threads are completely messed up. I’m thinking maybe I can try to fix it temporarily. So I decide to remove the wheel again only to find out that one bolt doesn’t come off!!! It spins but does not thread out...

I know I’m probably to blame for having forced them too much because there’s a bit of corrosion and they don’t thread smoothly but COME-ON! Couldn’t Volvo make these things a tiny bit stronger or better so they don’t corrode?

So now, in the morning, I’m going to have to drive on 3 bolts super slowly to the dealer and they’re going to tell me they have to change the whole hub. And I don’t know how expensive that’s going to be. Haaaa! I’m pissed…

carreragt7 · Apr 16, 2011

I know how expensive it'll be. I had to do this last week. It was around $400 with $50 for 5 new lugs because I forgot to bring some of my extras. Not cool but my wheel kept coming loose on the freeway. The hub itself was around $178 and the rest was labor.

TG · Apr 16, 2011

I figured... $160 plus 1 hour labor but I think you are probably correct. . . That's more what they're going to charge me.

I was going to have them install my lowered springs. It would probably be a good time but now with this added expense I don't know. . .

I already have an unrepairable flat they will change, plus rebalancing wheels that were giving me vibration, plus the service, plus the inspection. . . now the hub. Do I really want to add +$500 for spring installation?

This is the first time I got so much problem at once. This is not my week with my car

TG · Apr 16, 2011

So two questions . . . to appease my mood:

1. Is it part of good car maintenance to change lug nuts? And how often? (I think I'll replace them all very soon)

2. More important, am I OK to drive on 3 lug nuts slowly to the dealer? It's a bout 8 miles drive.

stealth · Apr 16, 2011

I replaced all of my lug nuts last year. I was not happy, but it was necessary, as they were in terrible condition. I'd call/ask the dealer about #2, unless someone else chimes in here. I'd probably be more partial to calling up AAA or Volvo On Call since I have both.

TG · Apr 16, 2011

Thanks stealth. I'm going to take my chance this morning and drive super slow to go to the dealer. I think it should be fine if I'm very gentle on turns and avoid every possible pot-holes. I'll stop half way for a check. The road is not bad going over there.

EngTech · Apr 16, 2011

Air Guns ?

What seems to be the Root Cause of this No - Grease - or some Guy with the Blap - Gun - Blapping away - Blap , Blap , Balp - there I think it's torqued ~!

volvoracer · Apr 16, 2011

Hard to say what stripped your lug bolts, airgun over-torque and/or dry threads are a likely cause for your problem,..This is why I do my own work on my car...

Once I have an f'ed up stripped lug off the car, it hits the metal trash bin with a bang, good-bye!
The threads in the lugs seem softer than the hub, so "usually" a new bolt is the cure.
*If not, there are cheap taps available, and most threads can be repaired easily.

*I use grease or Never-Seize on my lugs every time I have them off the car...bought a 1/2" drive Beam Torques Wrench, and I hand fit each lug, zip it in with the Air Gun (if I'm at the Shop) then tighten up with the Torque Wrench, by hand, with the car on the ground.

Fussy? Sure I am, but I think I'm worth it.

Basically, over many years, I have "got involved" with my car and maintenance; when I need help I go to my "experts", as I sure don't know everything...and lessons learned like dry lugs strip easily are remembered.

FWIW: I swapped my front hub bearings last Saturday, first thing I did when it was ready to put the wheels back on was apply "Never-Seize" to the new hub threads...

EngTech · Apr 16, 2011

What really pisses Me Off - is the fact that Suspension Items that are suppose to move can't Move as they are Frozen Up - Common On - If those had grease from the factory they would have
Loosened Up . Greased everything Up Big time - Bolts - Cleaned up the Hubs surface Re-Greased, and greased Rotor faces also - Threads etc.

If I had more time _ I would have put a fresh cost of Hard Wax - on top of struts - Missed that area - but it did look pretty clean still all factory paint .

TG · Apr 16, 2011

Back safe and sound.

EngTech, I'm not quite sure what the problem is coming from. I would say about 40% of the life of the car I have taken care of the wheels which I've always done by hand.
This seems to have gotten worth over time rather than a sudden problem. Every year it seems that the lug nuts would get a tad harder to remove. Last year they started to squeal when unthreading them.

I think it's the material they used for both lug nuts and bolts. I don't know for sure but it seems the OEM lug nuts are made of some aluminum alloy and the bolts seem to be prone to corrosion. My take is that the corrosion actually sticks to the aluminum and start deforming it since it is a much softer material. Then lug nuts get hot and threads are deformed and when put back the thread can be re-threaded differently, eventually to the point where it is forced and ripped. I think that’s what might have happen.

I’m curious about other theories. I know others have had issues as well but I’m curious to know if it is a common problem.

I also wash my car and detail my wheels. When doing so I wonder if I increase the corrosion rate. A normal driver may not do.

On the bright side of all this they gave me a free 2010 S80 loaner. It's nice to try a different Volvo model.

kaustein · Apr 16, 2011

TG said:
So two questions . . . to appease my mood:

1. Is it part of good car maintenance to change lug nuts? And how often? (I think I'll replace them all very soon)

2. More important, am I OK to drive on 3 lug nuts slowly to the dealer? It's a bout 8 miles drive.

When ever I rotate any wheels I always spray lithium lube in them.

madden · Apr 16, 2011

Just go buy some Permatex anti-sieze, it prevents seizing, galling and offers corrosion protection. Wipe a thin coat into the threads, and they will come off easy everytime.

stealth · Apr 16, 2011

kaustein said:
When ever I rotate any wheels I always spray lithium lube in them.

Interesting, as I have some white lithium grease still. Where do you spray precisely? Back of the wheel face, hub lip, and stud threads? I would think the stud threads could be a problem, but if it is the last few threads towards the hub, it might be ok. Details?

TG · Apr 16, 2011

The brighter side of the day . . .

I know many put anti-seize on the studs but I'm not so crazy about lubricating lug nuts and stud threads that holds my tires. I know it would do the job but really you should not need that. I don't know, something about a wheel flying in front of you on the highway

I do use anti-seize on the face of the hub but that's about it and that works great.

TG · Apr 17, 2011

Does someone know where to get good lug nuts online for OEM wheels?

stealth · Apr 17, 2011

TG said:
Does someone know where to get good lug nuts online for OEM wheels?

Tasca Parts
http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocat...&model=S40&year=2005&graphicID=9726220&callout=4&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

TG · Apr 17, 2011

Thx Stealth. Are OEMs the best? - or more precisely would there be options that would help my lug nuts and stud thread problems? I'm not planning on having this happening again!

stealth · Apr 17, 2011

OEMs will work with OEM wheels. I figured it would be the safer choice.

TG · Apr 18, 2011

As small as lug nuts are I was just curious to not miss on something better if it was obvious.
You are probably correct though I'm left with the bad taste in my mouth with OEMs

Crappy wheel bolt and thread... dam it Volvo!

TG

carreragt7

TG

TG

stealth

TG

EngTech

volvoracer

EngTech

TG

kaustein

madden

stealth

TG

TG

stealth

TG

stealth

TG

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