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Deja Vu (and my opinion) regarding "lifetime ATF"...

Thanks for all the good info in this thread. So is this Ford document about the very same problem that was solved years ago with the 06J valve body in our caRs?

My caR was built at the end of Jan '07 and its AW 6-spd is an 06L. No issues, approaching 33K mi. Shifts are always somewhat harder (faster; more abrupt) when in Advanced (actually, whenever it's in "S" mode, which Advanced triggers independent of the "S" switch) -- I sometimes notice upshifts into 5th and 6th when in "S" mode (in fact, given the location of the "S" mode indicator, that's often my best/only indication)! (my tranny feels more solid than any automatic I've ever known) ...the next time I see my friend's March '07 VR (the last run of VRs, I believe), I'll try to remember to check to see if it's beyond an 06L

I'm getting a sense of deja vu regarding "lifetime fluid", from more than 10 years ago. V started that back with the 850, which used a 4-spd AW. One FFE (factory field engineer) told me that there'd been internal talk of either leaving out the dipstick entirely, or even including a ('fake') dipstick to some dummy reservoir! Clearly, this topic gives rise to lots of differing viewpoints...

Back then, some over-maintenance-freak V owners thought it'd be a good idea to drain and refill their 850 Turbo's ATF with each oil change. However, most of those over-maintenance types sold theirs and bought BMWs long before it made any difference at all what they did to their AWs...

My 854T was the ultimate driveable appliance. It thrived on neglect. Its AW was still going strong -- having never missed a shift or even a beat -- at 222K mi. Back in its youth, I drove it pretty hard, including once spinning the wheels virtually the entire way up the top half of the Pikes Peak Hill Climb race course. Amidst all the chicken-little ATF internet talk by the over-maintainers, I decided that maybe I should not wait until the 70K mi timing belt interval to freshen the ATF, and had it flushed (just disconnect the line to the radiator and let the AT pump suck in clean and push out old) at 64K miles (with many hard PP runs behind it, the fluid was no longer so red and fresh-smelling). It made no significant difference to the operation of the AW AT.

I did the 2nd timing belt change at 145K mi, and the ATF was 'preventively' flushed then, too. Again, no difference.

FWIW, I had essentially the same AW in my previous car, a Mazda. That one came from the factory misaligned between the flywheel and the torque converter, resulting in a vibration at 56(?) mph. By the time this error was relieved, permanent damage had been done. The warranty repl tranny came with a leak, so was repl. The 2nd warranty repl tranny came with a bad PRNDL switch! Anyway, that car was worn out at a little past 120K miles, so I only put maybe 70K mi on that (last) AW. Still, a very good unit; among the 3 in that car, only 1 beat/shift was ever missed, and that was on Pikes Peak when I abruptly changed my mind with the throttle just as the AW was making its shift decision (that was in an '80s car; by the '90s, the 850's AW's ECU apparently was fast enough that that never could happen). I was then, from my old AT days (more on that in a paragraph or 2...), still pretty fastidious about changing ATF, and several times pulled the pan. The first time, the 2 oil pan magnets were fully/shockingly covered in metal shavings (which were removed/cleaned during servicing). Subsequent drains/fills looked nothing like that...

So that's my experience. Here's my opinion/view on modern ATF life:

Back in the olden (1960s/1970s) days, pre-lockup-torque-converters, the (molecules in the) ATF was being constantly sheared (chewed up) by the AT (IOW, by the old-fashioned always-slipping heat-generating energy-wasting torque converter) whenever it was in gear. Back then, if you wanted your AT to last 'forever', all you needed to do was to change the fluid every 2 years or 25K miles.

Since then, lock-up TCs mean that the ATF molecules are not constantly being sheared; in fact, they hardly ever are. Also, ATF has improved drastically since the 1970s. So it's not totally out of the question for ATF to survive for 250K miles! IMHO, that's what the V engineers were smoking when they came up with "lifetime fluid".

Keep in mind that the biggest enemies of ATF are oxidation and contamination(/dirt). Doing additional/excessive ATF changes is the best way of introducing the #1 enemies of ATF into the system.

My car's still a pup, and I haven't worried about fluids yet, so I'm still quite ignorant about them. I know that some of the drivetrain fluids are pretty specialized. I don't know if my factory ATF fill is synthetic or not... I do know that I'm not a big believer in switching to synthetic ATF, given that Dexron (what my 4-spd AWs used) was already the most highly over-engineered fluid in the car, and also that synthetic engine oil's 2 biggest advantages -- friction reduction and tolerance of combustion-like temps -- are not as desirable/necessary in an AT as in an engine.

As long as the ATF doesn't over-heat, it shouldn't over-oxidize, and should, if left alone, remain good and functional for a darn long time. If the fluid becomes/is bad, that's virtually always a SYMPTOM of a problem, NOT a cause!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (...just as leukemia cannot be cured by performing a complete blood transfusion...) Changing the fluid will then serve to mask the problem, which can be a doubly-bad idea if the vehicle's still under warranty...

It's easy to laugh at "forever", but even easier to try to out-think V and over-maintain without benefit (or even with detriment!). I continue to reckon/believe/advise that the timing belt definitely needs changing more frequently than does the ATF. (And therefore that replacing the ATF along with the timing belt should be [more than] sufficient over-maintenance. Now, let the optimal timing belt replacement interval argument commence...)
 
Discussion starter · #22 · (Edited)
that's interesting to know. so at least the first 6 mo or so of 07 Rs had the earlier trans.

I found about about the Ford's just by going to Wikipedia and seeing what all cars have this trans in them (a LOT) I'm pretty familiar with Fords so I did a search on Fusion Sport shifting and found that TNN.

If there is an upside it is that basically from all those cars with this thing before Jan 2007 need this fixed as it is an engineering issues with the unit itself. It should make the procedure fairly common and well known at more generic trans shops than having to go directly to a dealer. Hopefully in turn making it a cheaper repair since more places know about it.

I've posted this before but it is cool that they list the parts and what they cure:

http://www.sonnax.com/exploded-views/VBL-TF80.pdf
 
Thanks for all the good info in this thread. So is this Ford document about the very same problem that was solved years ago with the 06J valve body in our caRs?
I think there are several issues being discussed in here, but the Ford bulletin does cover the same complaints (harsh shifts, flare, etc).

I recall someone on here saying they had the updated valve body installed by the dealer and the issues didn't go away, and some with cars that had the updated valvebody from the getgo & experienced issues. Definitely not common though.

Either way, though I'm not overjoyed that my car will very occasionally misbehave, I take comfort in the fact that it works well nearly all of the time and is covered to 100K and I'm documenting alerting my dealer about the issue as I go along (the flare happens every few times I drive it, only once a trip though).

TransGo (a VERY good company IMHO) also has a kit that is intended to address these same issues for this trans. Wonder if its approach is different from the updated valvebody or the Sonnax kit (they do have different approaches sometimes).

Back then, some over-maintenance-freak V owners thought it'd be a good idea to drain and refill their 850 Turbo's ATF with each oil change.
Wow... really? Should have figured out a way to sell them a bridge ;)

But IMO just leaving it forever is as bad as tinkering too much. It might last the life of the car, but it really depends on how its driven. I personally don't hang my hat on leaving the fluid in forever strictly because I didn't feel an improvement after a change as a blanket statement; imagine the same logic applied to engine oil. Fluids do wear out: oxidation from prolonged exposure to heat, viscosity loss from prolonged fluid shear, saturation with wear particles, expenditure of additives. Of course the question of how fast it wears out is akin to the question 'how long is a piece of rope?' The shape of the fluid really depends on how the car was driven, the only real way to know for sure is analysis.

The benefits of a synthetic fluid specifically with respect to AT's include film strengths nearly an order of magnitude higher than conventionals, much more uniform polymer chains which offer more consistent fluid properties on the microscopic level (basically fluid will last longer), and synthetics typically have a more additives/detergents (though all ATF is already pretty high in that regard). However, its all relative and just because one is 'better' than the other (on paper) does not mean the other is not more than good enough in the real world--I'm not a synthetic pusher, since there are PLENTY of cars racking up tons of miles/hours using only conventional oils. I'm a big believer in: its all about whats right for the way the user operates the equipment. If you're getting 222K out of your AT's w/o changing ATF, I'd say you've figured out what works for you, so keep on truckin. Otherwise, IMO if in doubt, there are labs around that will do a fluid analysis. Speaking of, perhaps I will simply access the fill plug & pull a fluid sample for analysis before I change it; I'd like to see how the 39K mile factory fill will analyze. Anyways, I have not run across a synthetic ATF that is officially compatible with the TF-80SC & IMO one of the WORST things someone can do is use the wrong/incompatible ATF. So, it will stick to the recommended conventional since synth isn't even an option.

My bottom line opinion is that the fluid can't be too clean or too fresh; I'm not a 'change monkey' but I don't feel that a change every 40-50K is excessive. At some point I may even install a remote spin on filter in line with the trans cooler lines. Unless the analysis comes back perfect I will change the ATF, and will probably end up changing it every 40-50K or so. The $100 or so it will cost me is not a big issue, & I am more than capable of doing a clean job/avoiding introduction of new contaminants. When I get around to the analysis I will post results in a new thread here for anyone interested, since it might be a fun discussion.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
"Anyways, I have not run across a synthetic ATF that is officially compatible with the TF-80SC "

huh? The Mobile 1 stuff is compatible and is essentially the same stuff in the Volvo branded bottles.
 
"Anyways, I have not run across a synthetic ATF that is officially compatible with the TF-80SC "

huh? The Mobile 1 stuff is compatible and is essentially the same stuff in the Volvo branded bottles.
Mobil 3309 is not synthetic.

EDIT: I just assumed you meant 3309, I just noticed that the Mobil1 synthetic ATF is listed as suitable for JWS 3309, which is probably what you meant, sorry.

:eek:

Wonder if anyone here has used the synth yet?
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
i dunno if it is fully synthetic, but I would imagine that it exceeds JWS 3309. considering how hard it is to change the fluid, I doubt anyone has tried it.
 
a quick way to get the proper amount of fluid back into the trans. is to carefully collect all the drained fluid. then messure and put the same amount back in. the drain plug is not that tite. if you're brave enough a chizel and small hammer will break it free will a single well placed strike.
 
...I personally don't hang my hat on leaving the fluid in forever strictly because I didn't feel an improvement after a change as a blanket statement; imagine the same logic applied to engine oil. Fluids do wear out: oxidation from prolonged exposure to heat, viscosity loss from prolonged fluid shear, saturation with wear particles, expenditure of additives. ...
Engine oil must survive in a very harsh environment: Not only must it endure sustained exposure to combustion(-like) temperatures, but it must deal with chemical blow-by contamination from combustion byproducts, including moisture and acidity. Compared to that, ATF leads a very cushy life, in a (more or less) sealed environment, which makes it much easier for manufacturers/engineers to engineer/predict fluid longevity. (For example, in a sealed environment, how do additives get expended?) Also, as the "grabbiness" of the fluid does change slightly over time ("saturation"[?] with wear particles), most if not all 'smart' transmissions will compensate and maintain the same good shifting behavior. So if you know that your tranny/ATF has not overheated, it really should be fine for a good long time...

Personally, I see 40-50K mi as excessive (even if you didn't want Volvo to buy you a new transmission under warranty). The change to lock-up torque converters (which cuts fluid shear by, what, 90%?) alone means that an ATF that was formerly good for only 25K should be good for at least several times as long. So should the chemical/additive improvements in ATF over the past 40+ years. Combine the longevity benefits of both technological improvements (plus the reduced shift-shocks resulting from ECU-spark-retarded upshifts and more closely-spaced ratios as a result of having more gears), and 40K mi is (or should be) nothing... So I look forward to hearing the outcome of your ATF analysis. But, remember my magnets experience/observation: a new tranny can shed lots of metal when young and then later settle down to near-zero, and with such non-linear wear rates, extrapolating can be very misleading... you might even consider performing a follow-up analysis months later even if you see a number or 2 you find unsettling or even alarming (it's under warranty, right???)...

Here's hoping they all fail like Pete's did (but then they get replaced professionally -- whatever that means -- when my Mazda's tranny was repl under warranty at the local Volvo-Mazda dealer [Bob Pehkhus], my car, too, wound up with loose and missing bolts...), or not at all.
 
So my 2006 GT feels like it slips between shifts at part throttle and I'm wondering if that's normal. It's always done this and if I gas it a bit more it almost instantly engages. I'm guessing it's normal and probably something that was engineered into it to make shifts more smooth. I'm at 79k and I just replaced the fluid (BIG PIA) and haven't noticed any difference which I guess it a good thing.

I bring it up because that document from Ford mentioned "perceived slip" as one of the symptoms and I've never really had any other problems with it...
 
Engine oil must survive in a very harsh environment: Not only must it endure sustained exposure to combustion(-like) temperatures, but it must deal with chemical blow-by contamination from combustion byproducts, including moisture and acidity. Compared to that, ATF leads a very cushy life, in a (more or less) sealed environment, which makes it much easier for manufacturers/engineers to engineer/predict fluid longevity.
Good points. Regarding the comparison to engine oil though, I was referring to the logic (it was okay because I didn't feel a difference when changed), not the change interval.

How much a lock up torque converter reduces shear depends on how you drive. I spend between 3-10 hours a week in bumper to bumper, stop & go traffic on Chicago'expressways.' In the summer it routinely reaches well into the 90's in traffic in the summer. Regardless, the fluid is still being sheared when circulating around by a pump through various passages, servos, bearings, is spinning around the case & is still sheared when the car is in stop & go traffic when you almost never get out of first gear. When I installed a remote mount spin on filter with a thermocouple in the cooler line of my Explorer 2dr and in the summer, it would routinely go over 190F in summer traffic. I wonder what the S60R's ATF would hit, though I don't wonder enough to clutter the car with a guage...

I do agree that ATF is far less stressed than engine oil, this is why I believe the interval can be far longer. I just don't buy the 'lifetime' claim.

I look forward to hearing the outcome of your ATF analysis.
Me too, we'll probably need to wait until late summer/early fall. I'm still trying to work in a road trip to Fla before the middle of August; though if I can access the fill plug w/o too much drama I might just bust out the Mityvac and get a sample w/o actually doing the change yet. The car is just about to roll over 39K, and only 5K of those are mine so I have little idea how the first 34K were driven.
 
what's the best way of (eventually) replacing the ATF?

> Back then, some over-maintenance-freak V owners thought it'd be a good idea to drain and refill their 850 Turbo's ATF with each oil change.

Wow... really? Should have figured out a way to sell them a bridge ;)
Well, the logic behind that 'thinking' was that since the TC holds quarts(?) of ATF, changing the fluid by merely draining/refiling wouldn't replace all the old ATF (which would be a little like changing engine oil but not oil filter), so therefore just keep on doing it over-excessively, because why be excessive and not be thorough, right? :rolleyes:

Has anyone ever tried just disconnecting the ATF return line from the trans cooler (on the driver's side of the radiator?) and providing fresh fluid to the return line while letting old fluid come out of the trans cooler as the engine idles???

Also, since the 5-spd and even the 6-spd have been around for a while now in a variety of not-just-R applications, I imagine that independent (and also V) shops that (over-)sell their ATF flushing machine services should know by now if it's [not] OK to use them on our gearboxes. (Based upon my past Volvo experiences, I'm pretty sure that not all authorized V service shops are above charging big bucks to perform a time-consuming factory-recommended PITA procedure but then turning right around and quickly and painlessly [and covertly] actually using a fancy but factory-unauthorized ATF flushing machine instead.)

I'm cheering you on in your info-gathering endeavor (via fill plug), but I'm also wondering if that VADIS fill/level holes procedure is the only/best way of eventually renewing the fluid, or just the best/only way of checking the fluid level and/or condition (dumb question: might it be possible to vacuum up a fluid sample via that breather vent hole atop the tranny?)...
 
377Z

The $100 or so it will cost me is not a big issue, & I am more than capable of doing a clean job/avoiding introduction of new contaminants. When I get around to the analysis I will post results in a new thread here for anyone interested, since it might be a fun discussion.
You better triple down for trans fluid change in an R by the dealer. Just had my flushed by an independant whom used to work for the V dealer(15yrs) for $300.00
 
Has anyone ever tried just disconnecting the ATF return line from the trans cooler (on the driver's side of the radiator?) and providing fresh fluid to the return line while letting old fluid come out of the trans cooler as the engine idles???
:) I found this on V70R.com:

http://www.v70r.com/forums/index.php?autocom=ibwiki&cmd=article&id=53

I believe on all AT's the pump is the sole driver of the fluid through the cooler circuit; thus if you disconnect it at the radiator it will pump the old ATF out, but there is no suction on the return line so you will either need have something to pump it back in, or rely on gravity. Usually the DIY procedures I've seen recommend marking a container at a level of 2 quarts, and pumping out that much ATF, stopping the engine, and putting in 2 fresh quarts, and repeating until the ATF coming out is fresh.

I think its strange that the procedure calls for an additional 1/2 quart over the drain plug level, but this shouldn't be any more difficult if you choose to fill through the cooler line versus the fill plug.

A DIY tool to help fill through the cooler line can be made from a hardware store pumpable bug sprayer--just get some hose that can be clamped over the return line and voila. Its basically the same as the Motive brake bleeder, but costs about $20 from Home Depot, versus $55+shipping for the Motive unit. It works, I cobbled one to bleed the brakes on a previous car & was pleased with the ease of use (I didn't bother with the shrader valve though). Just food for thought for anyone considering using the cooler line.

http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/campingart/jettatech/bleeder/index.htm

I'm cheering you on in your info-gathering endeavor (via fill plug), but I'm also wondering if that VADIS fill/level holes procedure is the only/best way of eventually renewing the fluid, or just the best/only way of checking the fluid level and/or condition (dumb question: might it be possible to vacuum up a fluid sample via that breather vent hole atop the tranny?)...
I'm going to be driving to Fla this Thursday, and I don't think I'll get a chance to look at fill plug access before then. The curiosity is KILLING me. I should have very basic tools there and might find some time down there to pull the airbox and look, but don't want to drag all my tools/a sample kit/and Mityvac on vacation with me. I don't know what the breather looks like (or where it is) on the TF-80SC, but on other transmissions I've seen the breather is far too small & may not have a direct path to the pan. Definitely worth a look though.

You better triple down for trans fluid change in an R by the dealer. Just had my flushed by an independant whom used to work for the V dealer(15yrs) for $300.00
I'm going to give DIY a shot, so I'm figuring about $100 for the ATF, some vinyl hose, a new funnel, etc. I'm paranoid about having work done on things you can't easily verify--like fluids w/o dipsticks (I don't have any shop I TRULY trust or can watch work).
 
what that... convert...?
 
are you going to extract the fluid through the fill hole?
No since the drain plug is so easy to reach. Plus you need to remove the level plug (which is in the center of the drain plug) in order to fill it to the proper level anyway--you fill it until the fluid begins to run out of the level plug, close the level plug, & add another half quart IIRC.
 
are you going to extract the fluid through the fill hole?
Well, even though I wasn't originally planning to do this, I tried it & no dice, couldn't get a tube down to the fluid level (too much "stuff" in the way). Granted all I had was a ~1/4 ID vinyl tube, but based on what I saw I don't think even the narrowest vinyl tube would work. Looks like I'll need to wait until I actually do a drain & fill & take a sample from the draining stream.
 
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