Replace the ETM before you mess with the wiring...

 

One might clean the ETM before replacing it as well.

 

The wires that go into the etm connector itself are usually the ones people replace, so check those before you replace the ETM, since those aren't cheap. I had my etm be diagnosed as faulty, and even with a new one the car will act like it is bad again, and then act totally normal when I reset the battery. It is intermittent so I suspect it is the wiring

 

I bought both parts already. How exactly do I replace those wires? I traced them back to the ECU box. Do I have to remove the ECU?


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I have done all this. I need to know how to change the wiring.


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I believe there is a kit Volvo sells that you can replace the etm connector. That is where it fails, not where it goes to the ecu.

Check out this thread where someone describes it http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/171112-2002-s60-etm-issue/

 

So if I understand correctly, I just have to cut the wires of the old connector and splice in the new wires and connector?

Just cut a few inches down from the connector and splice in the new one? That sounds a hell of a lot easier than having to route them all the way back to the ECU. Just gotta remember to number each wire before cutting! Thank you, this helps me immensely

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Post revival.

Having similar issues. Cleaned my ETM, cleaned connectors and added Stabillant-22 on connectors for ECU and ETM. Thinking I may need to replace the connector to the ETM. How hard is this?

 

Nevermind. It appears the actual fix is to solder a new connector. But the clean and cover with Stabillant -22 may have done the trick. Drove it around and no issues yet.


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So, I replaced the wiring connector by soldering the wires. Problem solved.

Edit: problem is still there.

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So, I replaced the wiring connector by soldering the wires. Problem solved.

Edit: problem is still there.

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Did you find the solution?

 

Look for sign of corrosion, or oxidation, on the ETM connector. You might need to use a light source and a magnifying glass to get a good look. If oxidation is found, the connection can be opened and closed repeatedly, and also given an application of an appropriate anti-oxidation paste, and then reassembled.

 

I read somewhere on here that sometimes the wires that run from the throttle body back into the ECU box go faulty and are misdiagnosed as a bad throttle body. I'm about to replace a (probably) faulty throttle body so I ordered a new wiring connector, as it was only about thirty bucks. However, messing with these wires isn't something I'm totally comfortable trying to figure out on my own. Anyone replaced these before?


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I have waited years to find out how to put in the entire harness.

 

The problem with replacing an "entire harness" is that a wiring harness will typically have many branches that go to various different locations in the car. During the manufacturing process, the harness is installed after the body has been welded up and painted, but before the various systems are installed, including hvac, interior lights, engine and transmission, instrument panel, interior panels, and seats. This means that the harness is buried in the structure of the car. You can see portions of the harness, including the plug connections, but much of it is not easily accessible. It is not so hard to repair a wire, or a bad connector. I had to replace a headlamp connector a few months ago, because the old one had become oxidized, and overheated. I think it took an hour.

 

The problem with replacing an "entire harness" is that a wiring harness will typically have many branches that go to various different locations in the car. During the manufacturing process, the harness is installed after the body has been welded up and painted, but before the various systems are installed, including hvac, interior lights, engine and transmission, instrument panel, interior panels, and seats. This means that the harness is buried in the structure of the car. You can see portions of the harness, including the plug connections, but much of it is not easily accessible. It is not so hard to repair a wire, or a bad connector. I had to replace a headlamp connector a few months ago, because the old one had become oxidized, and overheated. I think it took an hour.

My son pulled one off a p80 at the yard and replaced his with it.


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has anyone replaced the entire harness from ETM to ECM?

 

I’m about to….

 

omg good luck! I'm presently getting all the tools ready, from stabilant 22A, dielectric grease, deoxit d5S to, soldering machine, ECM revomal tool... ugh... nerve breaking? 😩

please let us know how it went for you

 

omg good luck! I'm presently getting all the tools ready, from stabilant 22A, dielectric grease, deoxit d5S to, soldering machine, ECM revomal tool... ugh... nerve breaking? 😩

please let us know how it went for you

to be more specific on my status: I have ordered the harness but I live remotely, so until it arrives, I'm gonna try to clean ECM (will remove it with small screw drivers, I made the mistake of ordering toll part from china so it will take forever to land) and also clean ETM connector with CRC and stabilant 22a (the already mixed bottle) and maybe I'm lucky to avoid complete harness removal or ETM replacement)

this forum has been a blessing!

 

 

Aaaaand… screech to a halt. Gonna call the dealer in the morning.. the wires coming out of my new one are different colors then the original. Plug fits.. they’re just using a different color code.. so I’m gonna call them Monday and get the actual plug and PIN numbers before I waste my time trying to trace it.. ill
Let you know when I get the info

 

found this chart here...
ETB Connector Pin Location Wire Colour ECM Pin Location
1 Blue-Red A:36
2 Green-Orange A:19
3 White A:59
4 Green A:35
5 Brown A:20
6 Green-Black A:1

taken from here: Xemodex Inc Technology Improved United States | 1-888-712-2525

 

found this chart here... ETB Connector Pin Location Wire Colour ECM Pin Location 1 Blue-Red A:36 2 Green-Orange A:19 3 White A:59 4 Green A:35 5 Brown A:20 6 Green-Black A:1 taken from here: Xemodex Inc Technology Improved United States | 1-888-712-2525

OK, unfortunately I don't know which is plug A..lol..I can probably find it...I would assume that the wires would be using the same color coding

 

Yes, at this point you're probably better off waiting for a 100% secure chart from volvo but copy/pasted the xemodex one for whoever might be in same troubles in the future... the more I read, the more I understand that the bosch ETMs are actually really good and in the majority of cases is the harnesss/connector or ECU corrosion... out of curiosity, how do u know your TB is in good shape? or is it a new one?

 

ok i just compared to the ones I gave you they are the same... I wonder if they change per year? i'll check on the wiring from my 04' xc 70

 

Ok, I’m back.. was down for a day… here’s what I have… your plugs are NOT marked.. the housing is.. I used blue marker to bring it out

As you can see I already have one plug out ( mine was black) but if you look next to the plugs you see ECU and TCU.. obviously, this is engine control, so we want the ECU. To the left you see side A and at the top, side B.. so look for those markings and you have your plug. Then the end of the plug, looking at the holes, you’ll see numbers on either end of the rows. That would be start and end number.. so start counting.

 

I finally depinned and ECU's 6 cables going to the ETM.

Pa75vette did a great job in explaining until a point. I'm gonna try to show what's next:

So as already explained SIDE A is where the ETM cable's are, which is what i have in picture.
In order to slide the connector out of the "white" ECU compartiment you gotta remove that red volvo tap shown on a previous post. Slide that and then you'll find connectors
1 Blue-Red A:36
2 Green-Orange A:19
3 White A:59
4 Green A:35
5 Brown A:20
6 Green-Black A:1

most of the cables are located in corners so making a mistake would be hard.

now in order to be able to depin, you gotta remove the black box surrounding the connectors, in order to do so, you gotta depress the pink latch to the side that moves (cant remember now) and you'll end up with this:

once you get here, you'll see on the above picture a large pink plastic thingy. This you need to either remove or lift in order to be able to press with a "needle" or anything you have handy to be able to depin. Remember not to push the cable until you press on the pin's tab and then push. It goes in 2 steps, you'll know what i mean once you're looking at it.

To remove pin #1, you'll lift the pink on the outter side (top side of the picture), but to get access to pin 20, you'll have to separate the connector and reach to the hole from the inside to be able to release the cable. This was let's say the hardest one to do bc it took me a while to figure how to separate the red/black connectors.

pins 35 and 36 were a paaaain to get out (they are located on the center on the other end) and the only reason why this was hard is bc i didnt buy the $50 depinner tool that napa wanted to sell me (i live in yukon, canada btw, might be cheaper for you) so it took me a while to create my own tool and after a long time finding something thin and long enough, i could do it. This pins work different bc you gotta press both sides of the pin in order to be able to remove it.

Wish i things i had or knew before doing this;

A better magnifier. Please get one, and ideally the kind you dont need to hold with one hand.
And a depinner.

Another thing to note and maybe encourage DYIers.
I'm not a mechanic or mechanic friendly, I did all this due of lack of mechanics in town, needless volvo specialists and bc I'm broke.

It took me time and patience but it's 100% doable for anyone. I'd recommend also being delicate in this area, but maybe this obvious for most.

Reassembling was easy, remember to lock to the END the 2 pink latches from the TCM and ECU otherwise it doesnt fully connect.

Then my new harness was taking more space on the hole made for the cables to get in to compartiment, so my box doesn't fully close on that end. What I did is cover it with electric tape so no water gets in but at this point I'm sure you'll all have your ideas to how to finish the job.

connecting the other end was super easy and i didnt remove anything, just unpluggged it and plugged new one. I do have small hands btw. Might be different for others.

Ok, hope this helps anyone there with the same problem. Cheers!! (i'll add some extra pics now)

 

If I understand correctly, in the step to separate the connectors from the black shroud the latches circled in red get depressed in so the shroud can lift off of the red and black connectors?

I kept thinking the pink clip on the bottom must be retaining the thin pink locks running the length of the connectors. If it's just squeeze to release then I feel pretty dumb.

Just want to say that you are an absolute champion for coming through with this. Sorry to clutter the forums elsewhere, I appreciate you redirecting me to your hard work.

 

ahhhh, yes i see what you mean now.
So the pink latch located at the centre, needs to be slided to the only one side that it moves, if i remember correctly looking at the pic below it goes UP or from blue circle towards red circle.

The tiny pink latch on the red circle won't do anything for you to remove the black housing. However, there's ANOTHER pink thingy that it doesnt show on this pictures that is located in the center and after you slide the outter pink latch, then you need to press on the inner pink latch... it took me forever to figure this out, i hope this clarifies?
So basically forget about the tiny little latch on the side (that's the one that you'll have to lift to depin the cable) but in order to get there, you FIRST have to remove the black housing by sliding the pink slider on each side (it moves just a little) and then the one at the CENTER not shown in the pic but you'll see once you get there...

hope this helps!

 

oh you know what i did take a pic of that pink in the middle... look at this:

that "M" shaped pink latch at the center needs to be moved. I used a long thing metal tube to be able to move it

 

wow, very nice write up and info. I wonder if you can help me out. I have a 2006 S60. I purchased the new harness (found that some of the wires were popping out the back of the plug that connects to the ETM). I have a nice 2006 wiring diagram. However, it shows that the #5 Brown wire connects to 31/91 ground. Where is that? is it a pin inside the ECM? Also the #6 Green Black strip wire connects to 54/1B pin 14, but where is that? I'd think all of the wires would go into the ECM because the new wires I bought run the entire length of the wires. Not like any of them branch off. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.

 

Hi All,
I am performing the same repair on my 2003 s80 2.5T. I have a wiring schematic document and found this for the 5-cylinder versions:

 

Image of ETM --> ECM Connection

 

Finally, I replaced my ETM with a Bosch from FCP Euro. I couldn't get the computer out with the tool that I purchased so I left the wires alone. I was able to get the cover off the plug to the ETM enough to see that the ends of the wires were sufficiently reaching the end of the plug. passed inspection about two weeks ago....no codes, runs great. I was skeptical that my issues were caused by a faulty ETM.